Glorious Grannies

There are few things as simple and fun to make as your traditional granny square.  It’s dead easy, and the simple repetition is a meditative set of movements that calms the harried mind.

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This week, while working on very complicated projects, I had such a strong urge to make a few grannies.  Normally when I start something I have a pretty good idea from the get go what it will be.  This time I simply wanted to make for the sake of it, and felt I would figure out the details later.  So, I grabbed some yarn and just began.

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My week is not without deadlines, and I daren’t procrastinate, but I derived immense joy from the colours and simplicity.  For the newbies out there I thought I would share a few bits of info on granny squares, how to make them, and securely weaving in ends.

In the end I decided that this set of grannies would become a cushion cover.  I made it from Scheepjes Stonewashed, which is a blend of cotton and acrylic.  It’s gorgeous to work with, and comes in an astounding number of colours.  What amazes me most is they managed to assign a colour appropriate gem or stone to each colour.  That was surely no mean feat.

Righto then, lets start with how to make a simple granny square. I will demonstrate how to make a solid colour square, but should you wish to change colours at any point, simply fasten off and join the new colour in any corner.

How to make a granny square

For this tutorial I am using Scheepjes Stonewashed in colour 819 “New Jade” and a 3.5mm hook.  If you are using DK use a 4mm hook, or for any other weight the ball band should give you an idea of the hook size to use.

This tutorial will use UK terms.

Explanation of stitches

Slip stitch: insert hook into stitch, grab yarn with hook and pull through stitch to the front of work, pull through loop on the hook.

Treble: yarn over, insert hook into space, grab yarn with hook, and pull through space to the front of work, three loops on hook, yarn over pull through two loops, yarn over again and pull through remaining two loops.

Start with a slipknot and chain 5.  Join to form a ring.  For round 1 we will be working into the ring as indicated in the following image by the needle:  

Work into the ring as indicated

Next, chain 3 (this counts as the first treble.  Work two more trebles into the ring.  Chain 3.  This will be your first corner. Work another 3 trebles into the ring.  Your work should now resemble the following:

First corner of round 1 made

Chain 3 to make the next corner, and work 3 trebles into the ring to form the next cluster.  Repeat this step to create the 4th and final cluster ending with a chain 3.  Join to the top of the beginning chain 3.  Your work should now look like this, with 4 clusters of 3 trebles and 4 chain 3 spaces.

Round 1

If you were to change colour for the next round you would fasten off your work and join the new colour into any corner. Since we are making a square using one colour you need to slip stitch into the next stitch (as indicated by the needle). See the following image for guidance:

Slip stitch into indicated space

Slip stitch again into the corner. Now you are ready to do the next round.

For round 2 we once again need to chain 3. This counts as the first treble. Next work 2 trebles into the corner space and chain 2. Work another 3 trebles into the same corner space. You now have your first corner of the second round made. The reason we chained 2 instead of 3 in the making of the corner on the second round is I like to make a fairly compact square that isn’t too loose with the holes too big. To this end, while you may find many patterns for granny squares chaining one between clusters, we will not be making chains between the clusters.

The first corner of round 2

We will repeat this first corner by working 3 trebles, 2 chains, 3 trebles into each chain space around. End off with a slip stitch into the top of the beginning chain 3.

You will note that you now have four corners, made up of two clusters of 3 trebles, with a 2 chain space between clusters. You also have an additional space between clusters. This is important for the next round.

Round 2

To begin round 3 you will need to once slip stitch your way into the corner space. Then chain 3, and work 2 more trebles to form the first corner cluster, then 2 chains and another 3 trebles into the same space. Corner made. Now you will also need to work a cluster of 3 trebles into the newly formed space between the clusters (as indicated by the needle in the above image). Next you will make the second corner by working 3 trebles, 2 chains and 3 trebles into the next corner space. Repeat this all the way around and join with a slip stitch into to the top of the beginning chain 3.

At the end of this round your square should look like the one in the image below, and note that you now have 2 spaces between corners. For each round you work you will find additional spaces between corners on each side of your square. You will always work a 3 treble cluster into these spaces.

Round three, and the additional spaces indicated.

You can make the square any size you please, from a few rounds, to a massive square blanket. When you have attained the number of rounds you require, simply fasten off your work. Change colours as you please, or use just one colour. The possibilities are endless. I’m going to go ahead and work another two rounds, leaving me with a five round square.

Square with five rounds

Weaving in ends

I don’t know a single crocheter who enjoys the process of weaving in the ends. You will hear people try to find all sorts of ways to avoid doing it properly, which results in their work inevitably coming undone. My way of thinking is that if you are going to spend all that time and money on a project it really isn’t that much effort to work in those ends properly, thereby ensuring they never, ever come undone. I have seen beautiful heirlooms with sad holes in them because people avoid this step. So to you, dear crocheter, I say spend a little time on this and you will be glad you did.

Fortunately my five round square above only has two ends. The more colours the more ends. Lets start with the end that is left from making the first round, and centre of the square.

Turn your work over so the wrong side is facing you. You will always, unless instructed otherwise, work your ends into the wrong side.

Wrong side of work facing

First thread the yarn onto a sharp needle. I prefer metal needles with a nice point, but use whatever works for you.

Work the needle through several stitches at a time of the centre ring, working your way once all around.

Next you are going to work backward. Skip a stitch in the opposite direction, and work your needle back through the stitches working several stitches at a time. Repeat the process a few times and snip of the end close to your work. I like to use embroidery scissors as they are precise, reducing the risk of accidentally cutting the work itself.

Next we are going to work on the end where you finished your work off. If you changed colours you can apply the same method to any part of the work. Thread your needle with the yarn end, and work your end in several directions, skipping stitches and working back over sections already worked. Once you are satisfied that you have repeated the process enough times, you can snip the yarn end.

The work is turned as needed while you work the end, always into the wrong side of work.
Wrong side of granny square with ends worked in

And voila! You have a completed granny square. If your granny square is a bit wonky, or isn’t as flat as you’d like, check out my tutorial for spray blocking your work. It makes a huge difference.

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